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#WaveRecord - The waves just keep getting higher off Ireland's coast!

Following our report in January this year that the M3 weather buoy measured the second highest wave off the West Cork coast comes news of an even bigger swell just a few weeks later.

Met Éireann's Columba Creamer informs us of a maximum individual wave height of 21.91 metres recorded on the night of Monday 23 February.

That's more than two metres clear of the previous record set by the MM3 weather buoy in January 2013, and marks the fourth highest wave recorded across Ireland's buoy network.

But there's more, as Monday 26 January saw Ireland's biggest ever wave – a 23.44-metre whopper – recorded by the M4 buoy off Donegal.

Creamer – Met Éireann's port meteorological officer, who quality controls data streams from Ireland's buoy network – says the four Fugro buoys (labelled M2, M3, M4 and M5) measure significant wave height, individual wave height, swell height, wind wave height, period and direction for each wave type.

Published in Coastal Notes

#SURFING - One of Ireland's top surfers claims he has found the world's biggest waves off the coast of Ireland.

As Irish Central reports, Portrush waverider Al Mennie says that he and surfing partner Andrew Cotton have found two waves reaching as much as 120 feet in secret locations off the coasts of Antrim and Donegal.

The duo are currently waiting for the right conditions to surf the biggest swells.

"The good days are few and far between – 90 percent of the swells are unrideable and we'd reckon that only two days each year are rideable," Mennie told the Irish Independent.

Their location is being kept under wraps for now due to safety concerns, as the waves crash down in a hazardous rocky area - making them definitely not suitable for novices.

Irish Central has more on the story HERE.

Published in Surfing
A new radar system in Galway Bay could help predict extreme weather events more accurately, The Irish Times reports.
Scientists at NUI Galway's Ryan Institute, in collaboration with the IBM Smarter Cities Technology Centre in Dublin, have installed the system on the shoreline in Galway Bay.
The system - the first of its kind in North Atlantic Europe - consists of two antennae, on Mutton Island and Spiddal, which scan the surface of the bay every half hour.
It then sends high-resolutions maps of surface currents and details of wave height and direction directly to the scientists' base at the NUIG campus.
The data is used, along with meteorological data, to develop models for forecasing marine conditions from tidal currents to storm surges - common on the challenging coastline around Galway Bay and the Aran Islands.
Moreover, the system is set to benefit the local community and beyond as the data, when completed, will be made freely available.
Silicon Republic says that the Galway Bay Coastal Observing System (GalCOS) could be used by sailors, fishermen and tourists to more accurately assess conditions in the area.
It could also be of use to local authorities in terms of providing details on the best time to release effluent while minimising environmental damage.
“This type of predictive modelling is critical to our Smarter Cities agenda," said IBM's Dr Lisa Amini, "and the findings can be widely applied to protect coastal cities and their environments."

A new radar system in Galway could help predict extreme weather events more accurately, The Irish Times reports.

Scientists at NUI Galway's Ryan Institute, in collaboration with the IBM Smarter Cities Technology Centre in Dublin, have installed the system on the shoreline in Galway Bay.

The system - the first of its kind in North Atlantic Europe - consists of two antennae, on Mutton Island and Spiddal, which scan the surface of the bay every half hour.

It then sends high-resolutions maps of surface currents and details of wave height and direction directly to the scientists' base at the NUIG campus.

The data is used, along with meteorological data, to develop models for forecasing marine conditions from tidal currents to storm surges - common on the challenging coastline around Galway Bay and the Aran Islands.

Moreover, the system is set to benefit the local community and beyond as the data, when completed, will be made freely available.

Silicon Republic says that the Galway Bay Coastal Observing System (GalCOS) could be used by sailors, fishermen and tourists to more accurately assess conditions in the area.

It could also be of use to local authorities in terms of providing details on the best time to release effluent while minimising environmental damage.

“This type of predictive modelling is critical to our Smarter Cities agenda," said IBM's Dr Lisa Amini, "and the findings can be widely applied to protect coastal cities and their environments."

Published in Coastal Notes

Our week began with the forecast of a huge swell hitting the North Coast of Ireland. It is usual that we travel through the night to meet the swell somewhere on the West Coast with great anticipation writes Conn Osborne. This time there was none of that, this time the swell was coming to meet us in our own backyard.

There had always been rumours of a wave, rumours as mythical as the tales of the Giants themselves at the Causeway. (SCROLL DOWN FOR PHOTOS!)

Al Mennie has been surfing most of his life, and big wave surfing for alot of that. Years ago he began a survey of our coast searching for potential big wave spots, educating himself through much observation and study on what exact conditions were required for each indivdual location.

The exact conditions this time were culminating on one of Ireland's most famous landmarks and tourist attractions, we felt privileged and knew that performing our best was the only option.

Monday drew to a close with phone calls between us gradually slowing down and firm plans having been shaped and finalised by Al who stood alone on the Causeway in the dark watching...and waiting...

Tuesday finally arrived, we each set out alone before dawn, with an aim to meet at first light - plenty of time then to organise equipment and get the tide right.

We have done this so many times before and have seen so many big waves but it was certainly different and very inspiring to view our own waters through refreshed eyes.

Equpiment was organised, set up and checked, the chosen boards were ritually waxed and choice of fins installed. The Riders, Al Mennie, Andrew Cotton, and Lyndon Wake protected from the bitterness by high tech wetsuits set down the slipway with their Jetski and "Sled" rigs into the icey waters of the Atlantic.

The video of the expedition by Jamie Russell of Entity Media Productions

As we made our way over the the chop and over the swell we could see some white water entering the arena which is a bay that we knew would fill with white water and leave no safe exit from riding the large waves. (This was a spot that would prove to take all of our surfing knowledge and experience to surf.) We sat and prepaired with good grace 'n banter as we waited for those anticipated conditions to combine.
We could see spray fly off the back of swell as it rolled into the bay. The wind was picking up right.
Jetskis were powered up and we went in for a closer look to study how the wave was actually shaping up - the dynamics.

Swell increased in size and we could now really see the true challange of what we had set out to meet, for up until this moment, no one had witnessed swell of this size in position to surf.

Al Mennie Talks about his first experience..

"After watching the sets break and establishing some mark ups so we knew where we needed to sit in order to catch them, both Cotty and I jumped in and paddled to the peak. Every now and again the bay would close out with a set that would miss the main take off spot".

"Within 30 seconds, of paddling out, I got lucky and happened to be right under a big peak coming towards me. As I spun my 8'2" around to paddle into it I almost couldn't belive this was happening.  Last week I was in La Vaca surfing in the contest and the week before I was surfing big La Santa point with Rob Small.  Now, I'm paddling for a wave, just as big, two minutes from my house. I remember getting to my feet as it stood up and then going really fast down the face. As I kicked out I looked around me in disbelief. This big wave is breaking in one of the most beautiful natural arenas in the world and I've just ridden one.  It was very satisfying. As I paddled back out for what became a four hour session Cotty went on his first elevator drop."

"The bay is very deep and holds a lot of water causing quite a lot of movement out there. There are rock boils everywhere and it would be very easy to fall and become a human pinball!"

Al Mennie's exploits, expeditions and endeavours can be read about in his book... Surfing Mennie Waves. Available online at www.almennie.com

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Irish Big Wave Rider Al Mennie going over the Edge @ Finn MacCools - Giants Causeway

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The Team sit studying before commiting (Scale Setting)

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Early in the day before the real conditions meet, this is the wind starting to Rise

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Al Mennie, Ireland's Big Wave Rider "Taking the Drop" and experiencing weightlessness

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Al Mennie having a fun Tow In, the guys prefer to paddle into waves under their own steam, "Any wave worth surfing, is definitely worth earning"

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Favourable conditions.. This is what Finn MacCools looks like

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The Giant's Causeway before the real Big swell hits

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Al Mennie gets to his feet and anticipates the next 20 seconds

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This is Al Mennie paddling to get up to speed so he can catch the Giant that is about to rare up to him

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Al sets the Rail of the board as he makes the high speed descent down the face of this fast moving Giant

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Irish Big Wave Rider, and Devonshire Big Wave Rider Andrew Cotton go over their equipment.. "to be able to actually put yourself in these potentialy dangerous situations and get out of them not only requires reliance on others, but also equipment"

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Andrew Cotton makes it to the bottom of a Finn MacCool wave ready to turn in towards it and climb

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Young Devon Pro Surfer Lyndon Wake, Andrew Cotton, and Al Mennie attach their "Sleds" to their high powered jet skis, these enable a platform for a surfer in the water to swim, and hold onto so they can be evacuated from a hazardous situation in the least possible time

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Early morning at the Harbour .. North Antrim.. Cold and deserted

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Al Mennie and Lyndon Waxing their boards for traction

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Andrew Cotton takes the drop at Finn MacCools and tries to force the nose of the board down against the wind that howls up the face of such sized waves

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6ft 5' Al Mennie walks down the Causeway into the sea ready to paddle out and catch a giant

More from Conn Osborne on his website HERE

Published in Surfing
The location of record breaking waves that appear only every few years will remain a secret known only to a handful of brave surfers. An international team - including Irish surfers - rode the giant prowler waves off the west coast of Ireland on Monday.

According to a Press Association report one of the six-man team, Briton Andrew Cotton, first spotted it several years ago while on board an Irish Coast Guard helicopter after being rescued from a surf accident off Mullaghmore, Co Sligo.

Last night some west coast surfers told Afloat.ie the location is most likely off the Sligo coast, up to two kilometres offshore and close to an underwater reef.

The terrifying-looking wave, dubbed 'Prowlers', was reportedly up to 50ft high on Tuesday when the Irish, British, Australian and South African surfers ventured out. Photos of it appeared on the front page of the Irish Times yesterday.

The surf team included Bundoran's Richie Fitzgerald who says he had waited for five years for the type of conditions required to surf it and on Monday the waves were in the 40-50ft range. Conditions were perfect due to the massive swell generated by Hurricane Tomas.

Published in Surfing

Marine Protected Areas (MPAs) - FAQS

Marine protected areas (MPAs) are geographically defined maritime areas where human activities are managed to protect important natural or cultural resources. In addition to conserving marine species and habitats, MPAs can support maritime economic activity and reduce the effects of climate change and ocean acidification.

MPAs can be found across a range of marine habitats, from the open ocean to coastal areas, intertidal zones, bays and estuaries. Marine protected areas are defined areas where human activities are managed to protect important natural or cultural resources.

The world's first MPA is said to have been the Fort Jefferson National Monument in Florida, North America, which covered 18,850 hectares of sea and 35 hectares of coastal land. This location was designated in 1935, but the main drive for MPAs came much later. The current global movement can be traced to the first World Congress on National Parks in 1962, and initiation in 1976 of a process to deliver exclusive rights to sovereign states over waters up to 200 nautical miles out then began to provide new focus

The Rio ‘Earth Summit’ on climate change in 1992 saw a global MPA area target of 10% by the 2010 deadline. When this was not met, an “Aichi target 11” was set requiring 10% coverage by 2020. There has been repeated efforts since then to tighten up MPA requirements.

Marae Moana is a multiple-use marine protected area created on July 13th 2017 by the government of the Cook islands in the south Pacific, north- east of New Zealand. The area extends across over 1.9 million square kilometres. However, In September 2019, Jacqueline Evans, a prominent marine biologist and Goldman environmental award winner who was openly critical of the government's plans for seabed mining, was replaced as director of the park by the Cook Islands prime minister’s office. The move attracted local media criticism, as Evans was responsible for developing the Marae Moana policy and the Marae Moana Act, She had worked on raising funding for the park, expanding policy and regulations and developing a plan that designates permitted areas for industrial activities.

Criteria for identifying and selecting MPAs depends on the overall objective or direction of the programme identified by the coastal state. For example, if the objective is to safeguard ecological habitats, the criteria will emphasise habitat diversity and the unique nature of the particular area.

Permanence of MPAs can vary internationally. Some are established under legislative action or under a different regulatory mechanism to exist permanently into the future. Others are intended to last only a few months or years.

Yes, Ireland has MPA cover in about 2.13 per cent of our waters. Although much of Ireland’s marine environment is regarded as in “generally good condition”, according to an expert group report for Government published in January 2021, it says that biodiversity loss and ecosystem degradation are of “wide concern due to increasing pressures such as overexploitation, habitat loss, pollution, and climate change”.

The Government has set a target of 30 per cent MPA coverage by 2030, and moves are already being made in that direction. However, environmentalists are dubious, pointing out that a previous target of ten per cent by 2020 was not met.

Conservation and sustainable management of the marine environment has been mandated by a number of international agreements and legal obligations, as an expert group report to government has pointed out. There are specific requirements for area-based protection in the EU Marine Strategy Framework Directive (MSFD), the OSPAR Convention, the UN Convention on Biological Diversity and the UN Sustainable Development Goals. 

Yes, the Marine Strategy Framework directive (2008/56/EC) required member states to put measures in place to achieve or maintain good environmental status in their waters by 2020. Under the directive a coherent and representative network of MPAs had to be created by 2016.

Ireland was about halfway up the EU table in designating protected areas under existing habitats and bird directives in a comparison published by the European Commission in 2009. However, the Fair Seas campaign, an environmental coalition formed in 2022, points out that Ireland is “lagging behind “ even our closest neighbours, such as Scotland which has 37 per cent. The Fair Seas campaign wants at least 10 per cent of Irish waters to be designated as “fully protected” by 2025, and “at least” 30 per cent by 2030.

Nearly a quarter of Britain’s territorial waters are covered by MPAs, set up to protect vital ecosystems and species. However, a conservation NGO, Oceana, said that analysis of fishing vessel tracking data published in The Guardian in October 2020 found that more than 97% of British MPAs created to safeguard ocean habitats, are being dredged and bottom trawled. 

There’s the rub. Currently, there is no definition of an MPA in Irish law, and environment protections under the Wildlife Acts only apply to the foreshore.

Current protection in marine areas beyond 12 nautical miles is limited to measures taken under the EU Birds and Habitats Directives or the OSPAR Convention. This means that habitats and species that are not listed in the EU Directives, but which may be locally, nationally or internationally important, cannot currently be afforded the necessary protection

Yes. In late March 2022, Minister for Housing Darragh O’Brien said that the Government had begun developing “stand-alone legislation” to enable identification, designation and management of MPAs to meet Ireland’s national and international commitments.

Yes. Environmental groups are not happy, as they have pointed out that legislation on marine planning took precedence over legislation on MPAs, due to the push to develop offshore renewable energy.

No, but some activities may be banned or restricted. Extraction is the main activity affected as in oil and gas activities; mining; dumping; and bottom trawling

The Government’s expert group report noted that MPA designations are likely to have the greatest influence on the “capture fisheries, marine tourism and aquaculture sectors”. It said research suggests that the net impacts on fisheries could ultimately be either positive or negative and will depend on the type of fishery involved and a wide array of other factors.

The same report noted that marine tourism and recreation sector can substantially benefit from MPA designation. However, it said that the “magnitude of the benefits” will depend to a large extent on the location of the MPA sites within the network and the management measures put in place.

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