Long serving RNLI lifeboat Coxswain John O’Donnell retired today (Wednesday, 31 May) after 21 years of saving lives at sea on the west coast of Ireland.

Born and raised on Inis Mór on the Aran Islands, John has been Coxswain at the lifeboat station since 2003. For his last exercise at the helm on Tuesday evening, the lifeboat was joined by members of the Irish Coast Guard Helicopter Rescue 115, from Shannon.

John O’Donnell was born and raised on Inis Mór on the Aran Islands. He started his working life as a fishing crew on his father’s boat in 1976, fishing out of Killybegs and then on both, the east and west coast of Ireland. In 1983, he finally got his own fishing boat before deciding to return home to the island, to build his own home and raise his family with his wife, Nora. While on his way over to the island from Galway in 2002, he met with members of the RNLI and on hearing he was coming home, they encouraged him to join the lifeboat crew on Inis Mór. The Coxswain, Paddy Mullen, was due to retire in the next year or two, and there would be a chance to become a full-time Coxswain onboard the lifeboat. John became the Aran Islands Coxswain in 2003 and has remained in the position since.

John O'Donnell with his son Ciaran, who is also a volunteer lifeboat crew member for Aran Islands RNLI

During his time in charge, John has been on many callouts and saved countless lives. The call out that stands out in his mind came during one of his earliest days on the lifeboat crew. A trawler with four crew onboard was lost. One of the crew was John’s cousin and the other, his best friend. The men had all fished together and were close, sadly all four crew were lost. John had been away when the call came in but arrived into Galway a few hours later and immediately took over the search. In the days that followed, the lifeboat was out searching and John remembers the lifeboat crew coming from Ballyglass and Achill to help.

Another call-out he remembers was to a 24-metre trawler which nearly ran aground at the North Light lighthouse on the west side of the island. The seas were enormous and when the lifeboat arrived on the scene, the trawler was nearly up on top of the rocks. The crew had one chance to get a rope from the lifeboat to the crew of the trawler, or it would be lost. In those seas, it was hugely challenging but John’s crew got the rope across to the trawler while he manoeuvred the lifeboat into position. Thankfully the lifeboat was able to tow the trawler away from the rocks and bring all crew safely home.

Commenting on his life with the RNLI on his retirement as Coxswain, John said, ‘I’ve spent all my working life at sea. I was never afraid; I knew what to do and I knew where to go, and I never refused a call. After 21 years, I can honestly say, I’m still learning. You might think you know it all, but there are no second chances with the sea, and every decision you make, there are five or six lives depending on you. I will miss it but I’m also ready to go. I’ve a wonderful family, and my wife Nora is a huge support to me. She raised our children, and understood that when someone is in trouble, you’ve got to go. Having that support was everything.’

He continued, ‘One person doesn’t run a lifeboat, it’s the whole station. The team on the Aran Islands are fantastic. I have huge admiration and respect for the men and women in the Irish Coast Guard too. Here on the Aran Islands, we work closely with the team in Valentia MRSC and Rescue 115, who are based in Shannon. On a bad night, you would look up and they would be there overhead. We have a close working relationship with them and that makes all the difference when you need to make split second decisions that could save a life. I would also like to thank my lifeboat colleagues across the Institution and in particular, the team at Galway RNLI, who we often worked with on a callout and looked after us during a long search.’

Speaking on John’s retirement RNLI Area Lifesaving Manager Rob King said, ‘It represents the end of era with John’s retirement. He is hugely respected and admired in the lifeboat community and it’s been an honour working with him. I think anyone who is involved with the sea or search and rescue will have heard of John or met him over the years. He has put saving lives at sea to the fore and has always been source of help and encouragement to his colleagues. He will be missed, and we wish him and Nora and the family, the very best for the future.’

Aran Islands RNLI Lifeboat launched last night (Tuesday, 16 May) to reports of kayakers in difficulty half a mile off Kilronan Pier. A member of the public raised the alarm after seeing them in trouble, and Shannon Coast Guard requested the lifeboat crew to launch at 7.55 pm.

The group of six kayakers with two kayaks, were quickly located on nearby rocks and due to their location, the lifeboat crew had to launch a Y-boat, a small inflatable rescue craft kept onboard the all-weather Severn class lifeboat. Using the small rescue craft, the lifeboat crew managed to get in close to the rocks and transfer all six casualties onboard the All-Weather lifeboat. Conditions on the evening were calm and the weather was dry.

On returning to Kilronan Pier, the group were medically assessed by a waiting doctor. Doolin Coast Guard and Rescue 115 were also in attendance at the scene.

Commenting on the successful callout, RNLI Coxswain Trevor Devereux said, ‘This was a good outcome, as it could have been a very different story. When kayaking, make sure to bring the correct equipment and that you tell someone where you are going. Always wear a lifejacket and make sure you have a means of calling for help. In this case, a member of the public raised the alarm when they saw something wrong, and thankfully, due to their vigilance, the group were rescued with no serious injuries.’

An Aran islands energy co-op has criticised a decision by Minister for Environment and Climate Eamon Ryan to exclude community projects from a new offshore wind support scheme.

The policy change has also been criticised by Ireland South MEP Seán Kelly, who has emphasised "the importance of community-led energy projects in Ireland".

Mr Ryan’s department has confirmed that a category for community projects will not be included in the third renewable energy support scheme (RESS), which is due to be initiated later this year.

It said it intends to roll out a separate “Small-Scale Generation Scheme”, as part of the policy change for RESS 3, which means that community groups do not have to compete with large-scale operators.

Kelly points out that in the first two phases of the RESS, 169 wind and solar farm projects were successful, with approximately 17 of these projects being community-owned.

He says an “alternative mechanism for community-led energy projects” should be launched as part of RESS 3 to “ensure we do not lose opportunities to support local communities to foster a sustainable and inclusive energy transition”.

Dara Ó Maoildhia, chair of Comharchumann Fuinnimh Oileáin Árainn Teoranta (CFOAT), the Aran islands energy co-op, noted that a “community-led” and “bottom-up” approach was central to a white paper on energy, passed into law by former energy minister Alex White.

“As a result of that, the Sustainable Energy Authority of Ireland (SEAI) initiated the Sustainable Energy Communities Scheme (SECs), of which there are now close to 1000 across the country, “O Maoildhia said.

“Also the RESS was established, with a ringfenced section for communities,” he said.

“There is no such indication of this community-led and bottom-up policy being enacted in relation to Ireland's offshore wind,” he said.

“The only “doffing of the hat” towards it is the community benefit fund, which is a top-down approach towards communities, and not the bottom-up, community-led approach required,” Ó Maoildhia said.

Energy operators approved through existing RESS schemes are required to provide community benefit funds.

However, this fixed sum does not give communities a permanent stake in renewable energy projects which may prove to be increasingly profitable, Ó Maoildhia pointed out.

An analysis published by University College Cork (UCC) researchers last year found that community projects located on Scotland’s Western Isles generated 34 times more benefit on average for islanders than commercially operated projects.

Noting the financial challenges involved for communities, the UCC study noted that Scottish groups have been opting to co-own wind farms alongside private developers, through acquisition of a stake in a project or a number of individual turbines.

Kelly, who was the lead negotiator for the European Parliament’s biggest political grouping, the EPP, on the EU’s Renewable Energy Directive, said he has been a strong supporter of “citizen energy projects”.

The EU directive mandates EU member states to create favourable conditions for the development of these projects, such as simplifying administrative procedures, reducing regulatory barriers, and providing financial support, he pointed out.

“This includes the right to sell excess electricity back to the grid, and receive fair compensation for it,” he said.

“Ireland is targeting 7 GW of offshore wind by the end of the decade, and we must ensure that local communities have the opportunity to participate in this transition to renewable energy,” Kelly said.

Ryan’s department said that the Government’s Climate Action Plan includes a target to deliver 500MW of community renewable energy by 2030.

It said its new Small-Scale Generation Scheme, which is due to be launched later this year, “will align more closely to the capacity of the community energy sector and ensure a more sustainable delivery of this renewable energy community target”.

• Lorna Siggins interviewed Dara Ó Maoildhia for an Afloat podcast in 2021 here

The Aran island fort of Dún Aonghasa was sixth most visited national monument in Ireland in 2022, while Kerry’s Blasket island visitor centre has recorded a significant increase.

Coastal locations remained highly popular last year among over 800 historic sites and monuments managed by the Office of Public Works (OPW) for the State.

Figures released by the OPW show Dún Aonghasa on Arainn’s Inis Mór in Galway Bay recorded 119,893 visitors who paid entry in 2022, compared to 83,892 in 2021 when the islands had a more restricted season due to Covid-19.

Kerry’s Great Blasket island recorded 12,000 visitors last year, compared to 8,137 in 2021.

"Coastal locations remained highly popular last year among over 800 historic sites"

The Blasket Island visitor centre and viewing point on the mainland, Ionad an Bhlascaoid, recorded a large increase, with 43,348 visitors last year compared to 11,067 in 2021.

North Mayo’s Céide Fields recorded a fall in visits, with 22,396 last year compared to 24,176 in 2021.

Kerry’s Scelig Mhichíl (Skellig Michael), where visitor numbers are restricted, had 14,197 visitors in 2022 compared to 12,105 the previous year.

Connemara’s newer attraction, Ionad Cultúrtha an Phiarsaigh (Pearse's Cottage), recorded a big surge in numbers, growing from 11,075 in 2021 to 19,292 last year.

The OPW said the overall number of recorded visitors last year exceeded 15 million, up by 2.3 million on 2021, an increase of 18%.

The OPW said it “manages and maintains the most important of Ireland’s historic buildings and heritage”.

“We take meticulous care of the 780 heritage sites in our charge and, at the 70 sites with visitor services, we work hard to present them to their best potential,”it said.

Talks are still continuing in relation to a pay allowance for guides and staff at Skellig Michael, as reported by Afloat.

Dublin Bay Cruises St. Bridget which departed the capital and headed across the scenic bay to neighbouring Dun Laoghaire Harbour from where it is based, is preparing for another busy season, writes Jehan Ashmore.

The 96 passenger vessel (spelt St. Bridget) had routinely been docked in the Grand Canal Dock Basin during the winter will however see cruises resume in March, running out of Dublin, Howth and Dun Laoghaire. In addition from this harbour, evening excursions encircling Dalkey Island is another option.

During St. Bridget's departure last weekend, the vessel passed the fornlorn Naomh Éanna which in January as Afloat reported, had keeled over heavily to port while in a Georgian era graving dry dock. This one of three dry docks (the largest infilled) adjoin the basin and is where ship repair and building took place. 

The former unique CIE operated passenger /freight ferry on the Galway-Aran Islands route, has languished in the capital since withdrawn from service in 1988.

In recent years there were plans to restore the veteran vessel which awaits a more uncertain future given water damage incurred of the Liffey Dockyard 1958 built ship's rivetted hull.

As for the St. Bridget, the vessel is operated by the Garrihy family in which they used previously on Aran Islands service under the name of Galway Bay. Last year, however they sold their west of Ireland sister operation, Doolin2Aran Ferries to rivals The Doolin Ferry Co.

This operator is owned by the O’Brien family, which had the 1992 purpose built passenger/cargoship Oileáin Árann (successor of Naomh Éanna) running Galway-Aran Islands. The ferry was sold to container shipping operator Samskip and renamed the Sæfari which remains operating in Iceland.

As for Ireland's largest islands operator, Aran Island Ferries’ passenger only Saoirse na Farraige, custom built for the longest domestic ferry route entered service from Galway in 2021. Up to then, there was a 33 year absence of service following the end of Naomh Éanna's career, though there has been and continues to be a 'freight' only service run by Lasta Mara Teoranta.

St. Bridget's recent exit of the Grand Canal Basin dock involved use of Buckingham Lock, which is the only functioning lock of three. The others locks, named Camden and Westmoreland where also opened in 1796 as part of the dock basin linking Dublin with the river Shannon. 

When the locks were in construction and then known as the Ringsend Docks, they were the largest in the world. The development led to surrounding warehouses, factories, milling operations and gasworks lining the dock quays.

By the 1960's the use of cargoships and coasters declined from docking including use of the inner basin. This is now where Waterways Ireland Visitor Centre is sited and among the high rise buildings is Google's Dublin (EU HQ) and CIE's Grand Canal Dock (Barrow St) DART station.

With St. Bridget's recent albeit brief return to the Liffey, the 1977 built vessel formerly based in France, made a transit through the nearby raised Thomas Clarke (East-link) toll-bridge.

Once through the bridge, St. Bridget motored along the fairway channel from where notable landmarks of the port among them the container cranes, the Poolbeg chimneys, the North Bull and North Bank Lighthouses formed a mix of maritime and industrial landscapes.

This before entering the wonderful expanse of Dublin Bay, with its splendid panorama reaching far along the horizon along with the natural world of marine wildlife.

Add to all this the backdrop of the capital with its mountains and of those in Co. Wicklow.

Scientists from Ireland and Europe plan to establish a permanent research station on the Aran islands dedicated to ocean science forecasting and climate change.

The Aran Islands International Research Station (AIRS) may be located on Inis Meáin where a solar-powered installation funded by the European Research Council has been operating since 2021.

The “Highwave” installation has been providing invaluable data on local wave conditions and their effects on coastal erosion and future global warming trends, according to Prof Frederic Dias and senior research engineer Arnaud Disant who initiated the project.

Dias is attached to the University College Dublin (UCD) and Ecole Normale Supérieure Paris Saclay (ENSPS), and Disant, also of UCD, designed and managed it in a cabin on top of a cliff on Inis Meáin.

They have been liaising with the Aran Island Energy Co-op (CFOAT) and the island co-op, Comhlacht Forbartha Inis Meáin.

Scientists who attended the recent conference on the Aran island research station to R front Pat Faherty (Research Station Technician UCD), Prof Michel Campillo (Université Grenoble Alpes), Arnaud Disant (Research Station Engineer UCD), Prof Frederic Dias (ENS Paris Saclay), Prof Murray Hitzman (CEO iCRAG) Dr Brian Ward (NUIG) (L to R back) Dr Salem Gharbia (ATU), Dr Maeve Boland (iCRAG) and Dr Alexis Merigaud (IFP Energies Nouvelles)

Dara Ó Maoildhia of the Aran Island Energy Co-op said the research so far is very exciting.

The “Highwave” station on Inis Meáín had picked up signals from the volcanic eruption of the Hunga-Tonga-Hunga-Ha’apai volcano on 15th January 2022 on Tonga, he said.

The eruption triggered tsunami waves of up to 15 metres, and was the largest recorded since the eruption of Krakatoa in 1883.

“ Highwave has been gathering geological, meteorological and oceanographic data – for example, measuring the force of the waves against the cliffs, how much it would take to hurl a 20-tonne boulder from the sea up onto the island,” he said.

Scientists from all over Ireland and Europe discussed the results of “Highwave”, and the plans to establish a permanent station on Inis Meáín when they met -or attempted to meet- on the island late last month.

Ó Maoildhia said that weather conditions trapped some of the scientists, and prevented others from travelling, but discussions were held over Zoom.

Ironically, “studying such extreme weather and its effect on the Irish coast and climate change was exactly why we were there,” the scientists from Ireland, France, Italy, USA, Norway, Uruguay and the Netherlands said in a statement.

Prof Orla Feely, UCD Vice President for Research, Innovation and Impact, and Prof Philippe Maitre, Vice-President, Research Strategy from ENS-Paris, represented the two founding institutions of AIRS.

The scientists agreed that Inis Meáin is “uniquely placed for such a permanent research station”.

They said it would “open major new perspectives for Irish and European research, not only in wave and storm science, but also on a variety of other areas such as geology, agronomy, botany, climate change, archaeology, and renewable energies”.

“This unique location provides unparalleled access to study ocean storms and weather systems, areas of research of critical importance as the world struggles to understand and adapt to climate change,” they said.

The recent conference had “provided a timely forum for leading international scientists to meet with members of the local community to discuss how to best serve ocean and climate science, and to consider how the research station could be adapted into a more permanent facility”, they said in a statement.

The local community was represented by CFOAT, Comhlacht Forbartha Inis Meáin, and Coláiste Naomh Eoin,

There was a “clear consensus on the need for a permanent research station on the Aran Islands, and UCD and ENS will work together in pursuit of this”, the joint statement said.

Aran Islands RNLI officially opened their new shop and Visitor Experience on Inis Mór this weekend, raising vital funds for the charity that saves lives at sea and awareness of the work of the lifeboat crew serving the islands. The sun came out for the grand opening, which took place on Saturday (1 October). The honour of cutting the ribbon fell to mother and daughter, Margaret Gill and Lena O’Connell. Both RNLI volunteers, Margaret is Treasurer of the Aran Islands fundraising branch with almost 40 years of service to the charity, while Lena is the station Lifeboat Press Officer and a fundraiser.

Lena and Margaret: Aran Islands Lifeboat Press Officer and Fundraising Volunteer Lena O’Connell and Aran Islands RNLI Treasurer Margaret Gill cut the ribbon on the Aran Island RNLI’s Visitor Experience as the crowd watches on. Photo: RNLI/Nigel Millard

The new shop is located next to the Aran Islands lifeboat station at Kilronan Pier, while the Visitor Experience is inside the boat hall. The shop offers a wide range of RNLI branded goods, including clothing and accessories, toys and stationery. It is expected to open seven days a week during the tourist season from Easter through to Autumn and will coincide with the ferry timings to and from the island.

Shop volunteers: Jack O’Connell and Siobhan McGuinness were on hand to welcome customers to the new Aran Islands RNLI shop Photo: RNLI/Nigel Millard

The Visitor Experience makes wonderful use of the large number of images and information about the station’s lifeboats, including memorable milestones, awards and rescue stories. The opening brought out a group of locals and visitors, with music provided by well-known musician Locko Cullen and a delicious buffet lunch laid on by Teach Nan Phaidí.

Back Row L-R: Nora O’Donnell, Padraic O’Tuairisg, RNLI Head of Region Anna Classon. Front Row: Michelle O’Donnell and Lifeboat Operations Manager for the Aran Islands RNLI Michael T. Hernon. Photo: RNLI/Nigel Millard

Aran Islands RNLI station mechanic Máirtín Eoin Coyne was MC for the event and, welcoming people to the short ceremony, was Lifeboat Operations Manager, Michael T. Hernon, who thanked the dedicated volunteers who have supported the lifeboat station and fundraising for nearly a century. RNLI Regional Engagement Manager Daniel Curran acknowledged the huge amount of people who had made the opening possible.

RNLI Head of Region, Anna Classon, whose own grandfather was a member of the Garda Síochána stationed on the island, and who made Inis Mór a home for her mother and uncles for many years, gave her speech in Irish and paid tribute to the lifeboat and island communities who support the RNLI in their lifesaving work.

Anna said, ‘This community, with the support of the RNLI, has been serving those in trouble on the sea for many years. It has a been a selfless tradition, with a history of bravery, volunteering, and kindness to strangers. Thank you for joining the RNLI in the bravest of endeavours, to put others before yourselves, in whatever role you play. I congratulate all involved with this lovely new shop and visitor experience and hope you welcome many people across the threshold in the years to come.’

After conducting the official ribbon cutting with her daughter Lena, Aran Islands RNLI Treasurer Margaret Gill said, ‘We are so thrilled to have our new shop and visitor experience on Inis Mór. There is an incredible history of lifeboating and lifesaving on this island and a group of committed volunteers that support it. There are tales of rescues and brave deeds going back generations and it’s lovely to have somewhere for visitors and locals to take a minute, look around the exhibits, and learn a bit about our history. They can also visit our shop when they have finished and buy a little memento of their trip to the island or an early Christmas card. As a charity the RNLI relies on the generosity of the pubic and we are so grateful for that ongoing support.’

The RNLI’s most westerly shop in Ireland will officially open its doors next Saturday 1 October from 1-4pm on Inis Mór, raising vital lifesaving funds for the charity that saves lives at sea.

And the day will also see the opening of the new Aran Islands RNLI Visitor Experience.

The new shop, which is located inside Aran Islands lifeboat station at Kilronan Pier, has quickly become a key attraction since opening its doors back in June to both the islanders and the many visitors who come each year.

Located in the boat hall of the station, meanwhile, the new Visitor Experience will bring people through 175 years of captivating history featuring imagery and facts about the station’s lifeboats, memorable milestones, awards, rescue stories and the many volunteers from the island who have made up the lifesaving crew over the years.

Speaking ahead of Saturday’s official opening and following the first season of trading, RNLI community manager Brian Wilson said: “We are delighted that Inis Mór is joining the heritage of lifeboat station shops in the RNLI.

Outside the Aran Islands lifeboat station shop, the RNLI’s most westerly outlet in Ireland, which opened in June | Credit: RNLI/Aran Islands

“This is the second RNLI shop on the west coast of Ireland, along with Sligo Bay which is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year. The response in the first week back in June more than exceeded our expectations and that momentum key up throughout the summer season.

“We have had a wonderful response from locals and tourists alike and we want to thank the team here for their efforts in getting us to this point as well as thanking everyone who has visited and shown their support since the opening.

“To now also have the Visitor Experience open is wonderful as it will give the many tourists who come to the Aran Islands each year another attraction to enjoy while giving them a terrific insight to the station’s rich history and the work of the volunteer team who have made such an impact over so many years. This meandering visitor experience is a special mark of respect to all the people, call outs and stories this lifeboat station has to tell.”

Everyone is welcome to attend the official opening of the Visitor Experience and shop from 1-4pm next Saturday 1 October, during which visitors can view the new facilities, speak to the crew and purchase a token from the shop as a memento of their day.

Meanwhile, the shop team at Aran Islands RNLI is still on the lookout for more volunteers. If you think you can give some time to help out, call into the shop for more information.

Families from Co Meath and Co Limerick will be housed rent-free in the Aran Islands as part of a drive to boost the number of school children locally.

The two families were chosen from more than 1,600 people — including some from as far away as Canada and even Australia — who applied for the scheme devised by Inis Meáin’s development body, as TheJournal.ie reports.

Two homes were sourced on the island for the nine months of the school year for the successful families, who can avail of local supports for remote working and whose children will attend school through Irish in the Gaeltacht area.

TheJournal.ie has much more on the story HERE.

Aran Islands RNLI’s volunteer crew responded to two medical emergencies on a busy Bank Holiday Monday (1 August).

The first call came at 3.42am when the crew on Inis Mór were requested to launch by the Irish Coast Guard to go the aid of a man on the neighbouring island of Inis Meáin who was in need of further medical attention.

Under coxswain John O’Donnell, the all-weather lifeboat launched and headed straight for Inis Meáin where the patient was safely transferred aboard the lifeboat and brought to the mainland at Ros an Mhíl. Conditions at the time of launching were good with calm seas and good visibility.

The next call was at 10.39pm on Monday night when a patient on Inis Mór was in need of further medical attention.

With the patient transferred safely aboard the lifeboat at the pontoon at Kilronan Harbour, the lifeboat launched under O’Donnell and a full crew for the mainland and transfer to a waiting ambulance.

Conditions at sea this time were challenging, with poor visibility and a Force 5 southwesterly wind blowing.

Speaking after the callout, O’Donnell said: “It has been a busy weekend for our volunteers and they didn’t hesitate to respond to their pagers. We would like to wish both patients a speedy recovery.”