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Set Sail this Season to Another Outer World – the Isles of Scilly

18th June 2023
At just 24 nautical miles off Cornwall, the Isles of Scilly is an archipelago of 140 islands of which 5 are inhabited among them St. Mary’s, the largest with the main centre of Hugh Town (above) where visitors take a coastal path while the Scillonian III is berthed having arrived from Penzance. The Scilly’s have the warmest weather in the UK, where plants from the Mediterranean climate zone and beyond flourish.
At just 24 nautical miles off Cornwall, the Isles of Scilly is an archipelago of 140 islands of which 5 are inhabited among them St. Mary’s, the largest with the main centre of Hugh Town (above) where visitors take a coastal path while the Scillonian III is berthed having arrived from Penzance. The Scilly’s have the warmest weather in the UK, where plants from the Mediterranean climate zone and beyond flourish. Credit: Jehan Ashmore

The Isles of Scilly, an archipelago formed mainly of five larger inhabited islands at a mere 24 nautical miles off Cornwall, England, is simply another world, having recently travelled to with the Isles of Scilly Steamship Company, writes Jehan Ashmore.

It's a place that has grabbed my attention and intrigue, having passed when taking the ferry from Ireland to France. During these overnight crossings to continental Europe, they take a passage in between Scilly and the iconic Land's End on the south-west tip of Britain.

Scillonian III alongside the quay at Hugh Town, St. Mary's with local inter-island ferries in attendance Scillonian III alongside the quay at Hugh Town, St. Mary's with local inter-island ferries in attendance 

So plans were set in place albeit for a brief visit having booked a day-trip excursion on board the Scillonian III. The 485 passenger ferry which also carries crane-lifted vehicles into its cargo hold, has since 1977 faithfully served islanders and visitors alike for more than four decades on the seasonal route of Penzance Harbour-St. Mary's Harbour. This is located in Hugh Town on St. Mary's, the Isles of Scilly largest inhabited island.

Passengers facilities are predominantly spread on two decks of the 1,255 gross tonnage ferry which features lounges, baby changing room, purser's office and a quiet lounge on the lower deck. As for food and drinks outlets, there is the Western Rocks Coffee Co. located on both the main and upper deck. From here can be accessed the open deck leading to the cruiser stern and on the boat deck is where additional seating is available for sight-seeing. On the deck above is located the funnel amidships, presenting a handsome and traditional profile of the ship registered in Scilly.

Passengers on deck of the Scillonian III take in the sea air and coastal views Passengers on deck of the Scillonian III take in the sea air and coastal views 

At this stage the seasonal service is well under way having begun in March and continues throughout the summer where visitors can experience and explore the way of life on Scilly. They have a population of around 2,000 where facilities for the islanders and visitors alike on St. Mary's are concentrated in Hugh Town with shops, bank, hotels and a range of other accommodation.

One of two café lounges, in this case on the upper deck facing forwardOne of two café lounges, in this case on the upper deck facing forward

During the 2 hour 40 minute crossing, passengers firstly enjoyed the sights of the rugged Cornish coast where in the distance is the landmark of Porthcurno Beach with its history of many a trans-Atlantic and other submarine telegraph cables laid underneath the sand. Next to the beach and perched on the cliff-face is the impressively positioned open-air Minack Theatre and this was followed by Land's End. While out to sea was another bonus as on the horizon was the Wolf Rock Lighthouse.

All this before the Scilly's would loom into view where secluded sandy beaches dotted the scene interspersed with rocky outcrops. To my surprise woodland was among the features in which visitors can set out to explore these unspoilt isles which have the mildest climate in the UK given a micro-climate influenced by the Gulf Stream, lending to colourful flora and fauna that unfolded as I would soon experience ashore while alongside a coastline of turquoise waters. For the wildlife enthusiast are the puffins which arrive to the Isles to breed between April and July.

On arrival at St. Mary's, Hugh Town with its characterful stone-cut architecture is where bike hire is an option to take in a largely traffic-free environment to further explore the main island. Take in a water based activity be it kayaking to snorkling or visit an archaeological site.

As a first time day-tripper, I decided to take the advice of a seasoned traveller which was to head to Juliet’s Garden Restaurant for lunch while taking in the panorama looking back at Hugh Town. In order to get there, I simply took a walk mostly on the coastal path lined with several beaches where the white sand shone with silvery speckles adding to the allure of the archipelago.

St. Mary's is convenienty also a transport hub with connecting inter-island ferry services (run by other operators) sailing to the inhabited isles of St. Martin's, Bryher, St. Agnes and Tresco which features the sub-tropical Abbey Gardens.

The Steamship company also operate inter-island services using the workboat Lyonesse Lady and likewise of Scillonian III, can handle a vehicle. In addition the Swift Lady, a RIB built by Redbay Boats of Co. Antrim, which provides a postal delivery service as well to acting as a back-up vessel to the Lyonesse Lady.

As for the islanders the freight-coaster Gry Maritha provides an essential life-line service on a year-round basis between the islands and Penzance Harbour.

There are also passenger aviation links in the form of SkyBus services operated by The Isle of Scilly Travel (a trading name of the Steamship company) which provides a service from Land's End Airport to St. Mary's where the airport is closely situated to Hugh Town.

Also in Cornwall are their SkyBus services linking the Scilly's and the UK mainland from Newquay Airport with connecting international airline services to Belfast, Dublin and Cork. Plus there's another SkyBus route through Exeter Airport in Devon that has links to Belfast and Dublin respectively.

For the more intrepid traveller when departing Ireland, a suggested itinerary is to take the ferry service from Cork to Roscoff and spend time in Brittany en-route before heading across the English Channel to Plymouth.

From the city head into the West Country by taking a bus or train to reach Penzance where the Isles of Scilly Travel company offers the option and flexibility of taking the Scillonian III, the SkyBus or a combination of both and in either direction.

Another integrated travel ticket option is with the company and Great Western Railways (GWR) which operates services from Bristol, Exeter and London to Penzance.

Published in Ferry
Jehan Ashmore

About The Author

Jehan Ashmore

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Jehan Ashmore is a marine correspondent, researcher and photographer, specialising in Irish ports, shipping and the ferry sector serving the UK and directly to mainland Europe. Jehan also occasionally writes a column, 'Maritime' Dalkey for the (Dalkey Community Council Newsletter) in addition to contributing to UK marine periodicals. 

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Ferry & Car Ferry News The ferry industry on the Irish Sea, is just like any other sector of the shipping industry, in that it is made up of a myriad of ship operators, owners, managers, charterers all contributing to providing a network of routes carried out by a variety of ships designed for different albeit similar purposes.

All this ferry activity involves conventional ferry tonnage, 'ro-pax', where the vessel's primary design is to carry more freight capacity rather than passengers. This is in some cases though, is in complete variance to the fast ferry craft where they carry many more passengers and charging a premium.

In reporting the ferry scene, we examine the constantly changing trends of this sector, as rival ferry operators are competing in an intensive environment, battling out for market share following the fallout of the economic crisis. All this has consequences some immediately felt, while at times, the effects can be drawn out over time, leading to the expense of others, through reduced competition or takeover or even face complete removal from the marketplace, as witnessed in recent years.

Arising from these challenging times, there are of course winners and losers, as exemplified in the trend to run high-speed ferry craft only during the peak-season summer months and on shorter distance routes. In addition, where fastcraft had once dominated the ferry scene, during the heady days from the mid-90's onwards, they have been replaced by recent newcomers in the form of the 'fast ferry' and with increased levels of luxury, yet seeming to form as a cost-effective alternative.

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