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Atlantic Coast’s Clew Bay Has New Speciality Coffee Range Funding Marine Restoration

13th February 2023
Croagh Patrick rises serenely above Clew Bay, an unrivalled mingling of sea and land which is developing its own maritime culture of inter-mixed eco-friendly industry and recreation afloat
Croagh Patrick rises serenely above Clew Bay, an unrivalled mingling of sea and land which is developing its own maritime culture of inter-mixed eco-friendly industry and recreation afloat Credit: Gareth McCormack

Clew Bay on the Mayo coast is in a league of its own. Outstandingly beautiful, with the serene peak of Croagh Patrick rising above Ireland’s most intricate and dynamic inter-mingling of sea and islands through many inlets large and small, the Bay has long fostered a vibrant maritime community that pre-dates its most illustrious star, the 16th Century sea queen Granuaille.

In current times, ocean voyagers such as James Cahill and Arctic Ocean circumnavigation pioneer Jarlath Cunnane have set forth from here, and most recently the long-distance mantle has maintained by Alex and Dara Blackwell. Offshore racing, meanwhile, has seen Clew Bay up in lights thanks to the efforts of Joan Mulloy and also of Louis Mulloy, noted campaigner of the J/24 Headcase and the MiniTransat Black Shell Farm. 

SUSTAINABLE SEAFOOD PRODUCTION

In many cases, the maritime involvement of these enthusiasts extends far beyond waterborne sport and recreation, for as a very environmentally-aware group, they are acutely attuned to the way that a carefully monitored seabed is beneficial in all its aspects, and especially in providing a sustainable seafood industry within the Bay’s many inlets and island passages.

Michael Mulloy, the patriarch of a remarkable nautical clan, has led the way in developing a matrix of productive industries which are scaled to respect their surroundings, supported by multi-tasker Alex Blackwell in his capacity as a Fisheries Biologist. Usually, they quietly get in with their jobs and often only attract attention for other activities such as Alex’s key roles in the administration of Irish cruising. But now a novel coffee marketing initiative has drawn the focus towards the sheer variety of what they do.

Northabout returns to Clew Bay after her Arctic Ocean circumnavigation with Jarlath Cunnane and Paddy Barry. Photo: Rory CaseyNorthabout returns to Clew Bay after her Arctic Ocean circumnavigation with Jarlath Cunnane and Paddy Barry. Photo: Rory Casey

COFFEE AND OYSTERS COMBINE

Green Ocean Coffee, a new speciality coffee range from Irish company Watermark Coffee, has been officially launched to coincide with a unique partnership agreement with Clew Bay Oyster Co-op.

Expertly roasted in Ireland, Green Ocean Coffee is made from 100% speciality grade arabica beans sourced directly from farmers in Brazil, Kenya and Honduras. Available in fully recyclable packaging, the three coffee blends deliver a vibrant, modern flavour and are named ‘Inishgowla’, ‘Dorinish’ and ‘Inisheeny’ after islands in Clew Bay.

Recognising the importance of the ocean’s potential role in tackling and reversing the effects of climate change and improving coastal biodiversity, Watermark Coffee’s partnership with Clew Bay Oyster Co-op aims to restore up to 180 hectares of seabed in Clew Bay, Co. Mayo from sales of Green Ocean Coffee.

For every 1kg bag of Green Ocean Coffee sold, one square metre of the oyster and seagrass bed will be restored, helping to lock away oceanic and atmospheric carbon at rate up to 35 times faster than the tropical rainforest.

CHANGES IN OCEAN HABITAT

David Lawlor, Managing Director of Watermark Coffee and himself a sailor of Wayfarer dinghies from the National Yacht Club in Dun Laoghaire, explains the motivation behind this novel project:

“At Watermark Coffee, we are committed to producing exceptional coffee whilst running our business in a way that minimises our environmental impact. As a sailor and diver myself, I have witnessed significant change to the ocean habitat, and have a deep appreciation of the vital role the ocean plays in stablising our global climate. As a company, we want to play our part, and give our customers the opportunity, to protect the biodiversity of our ocean in the long term. Green Ocean Coffee is about providing the conduit that links drinking amazing coffee with authentic climate action right here in Ireland”.

Alex Blackwell of Clew Bay Oyster Co-op and David Lawlor of Watermark Coffee on the shores of Clew Bay with their respective productsAlex Blackwell of Clew Bay Oyster Co-op and David Lawlor of Watermark Coffee on the shores of Clew Bay with their respective products

As an island nation, the role the ocean and in particular, oysters and seagrass, play in protecting our marine environment cannot be underestimated as Alex Blackwell, Fisheries Biologist and Manager of Clew Bay Oyster Co-op explains;

“Balance is key to a healthy ocean. Oyster and seagrass beds are a pivotal component in sequestering atmospheric carbon dioxide as well as providing coastal protection and creating sustainable employment. Oysters are nature’s most efficient filtration system, filtering up to 190 litres of seawater a day. They keep algae blooms at bay and encourage the growth of seagrass - one of the planet’s most overlooked sequestering plants. It’s a dream come true to have Green Ocean Coffee on board so we can continue to do this important restorative work”.

OCEAN COFFEE MATCHES AIMS OF WOODLAND COFFEE ASHORE

The launch of Green Ocean Coffee joins Watermark Coffee’s wider sustainable range, Woodland Coffee, which saw the company investing in a dedicated woodland plantation in Pallasgreen, Co. Limerick in 2020. To date, 27,000 trees have been planted as a result of Woodland Coffee sales. Watermark also participates in the rigorous Carbon Disclosure Project, a not-for-profit charity that runs the global disclosure system for investors, companies, cities, states and regions to manage their environmental impacts.

They’ll clean the sea or brighten you up….oysters and coffee make for a dynamic combinationThey’ll clean the sea or brighten you up….oysters and coffee make for a dynamic combination

Green Ocean Coffee is available wholesale to changemaker companies who share Watermark’s passion for driving sustainability, right down to the coffee they provide to their employees in the workplace. Watermark provide on site barista training, tastings, coffee machines and servicing. The range is also available to consumers to purchase on-line via www.greenoceancoffee.ie and retails at €15 for a 500g bag and €25 for a 1kg bag.

David Lawlor added: “We are very excited to launch Green Ocean Coffee after three extensive years of research and planning. We have had tremendous help and advice at all stages from diving experts in Ocean Divers, to Bord Iascaigh Mhara and of course Alex Blackwell and Michael Mulloy of Clew Bay Oyster Co-Op. Their enthusiasm and knowledge have helped make Green Ocean Coffee a reality. We are looking forward to working with new corporate clients and consumers to deliver great coffee and make a meaningful difference to the ocean that surrounds us.”

Michael Mulloy, Chair of Clew Bay Oyster Co-op concluded; “Native oysters in a bay is like the canary in a cage to a certain extent. If you have an abundance of native oysters in a fishery, it is an indication that your biodiversity is good. We are privileged to have retained native oyster beds in Clew Bay, and we are looking forward to working with our partners in Green Ocean Coffee to ensure these beds are protected into the future”.

WM Nixon

About The Author

WM Nixon

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William M Nixon has been writing about sailing in Ireland for many years in print and online, and his work has appeared internationally in magazines and books. His own experience ranges from club sailing to international offshore events, and he has cruised extensively under sail, often in his own boats which have ranged in size from an 11ft dinghy to a 35ft cruiser-racer. He has also been involved in the administration of several sailing organisations.

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Aquaculture Information

Aquaculture is the farming of animals in the water and has been practised for centuries, with the monks farming fish in the middle ages. More recently the technology has progressed and the aquaculture sector is now producing in the region of 50 thousand tonnes annually and provides a valuable food product as well as much needed employment in many rural areas of Ireland.

A typical fish farm involves keeping fish in pens in the water column, caring for them and supplying them with food so they grow to market size. Or for shellfish, containing them in a specialised unit and allowing them to feed on natural plants and materials in the water column until they reach harvestable size. While farming fish has a lower carbon and water footprint to those of land animals, and a very efficient food fed to weight gain ratio compared to beef, pork or chicken, farming does require protein food sources and produces organic waste which is released into the surrounding waters. Finding sustainable food sources, and reducing the environmental impacts are key challenges facing the sector as it continues to grow.

Salmon is the most popular fish bought by Irish families. In Ireland, most of our salmon is farmed, and along with mussels and oysters, are the main farmed species in the country.

Aquaculture in Ireland

  • Fish and shellfish are farmed in 14 Irish coastal counties.
  • Irish SMEs and families grow salmon, oysters, mussels and other seafood
  • The sector is worth €150m at the farm gate – 80% in export earnings.
  • The industry sustains 1,833 direct jobs in remote rural areas – 80% in the west of Ireland
  • Every full-time job in aquaculture creates 2.27 other jobs locally (Teagasc 2015)
  • Ireland’s marine farms occupy 0.0004% of Ireland’s 17,500Km2 inshore area.
  • 83% of people in coastal areas support the development of fish farming
  • Aquaculture is a strong, sustainable and popular strategic asset for development and job creation (Foodwise 2025, National Strategic Plan, Seafood
  • Operational Programme 2020, FAO, European Commission, European Investment Bank, Harvesting Our Ocean Wealth, Silicon Republic, CEDRA)
    Ireland has led the world in organically certified farmed fish for over 30 years
  • Fish farm workers include people who have spent over two decades in the business to school-leavers intent on becoming third-generation farmers on their family sites.

Irish Aquaculture FAQs

Aquaculture, also known as aquafarming, is the farming of aquatic organisms such as fish, crustaceans, molluscs and aquatic plants, and involves cultivating freshwater and saltwater populations under controlled conditions- in contrast to commercial fishing, which is the harvesting of wild fish. Mariculture refers to aquaculture practiced in marine environments and in underwater habitats. Particular kinds of aquaculture include fish farming, shrimp farming, oyster farming, mariculture, algaculture (such as seaweed farming), and the cultivation of ornamental fish. Particular methods include aquaponics and integrated multi-trophic aquaculture, both of which integrate fish farming and plant farming.

About 580 aquatic species are currently farmed all over the world, according to the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation (FAO), which says it is "practised by both some of the poorest farmers in developing countries and by multinational companies".

Increasing global demand for protein through seafood is driving increasing demand for aquaculture, particularly given the pressures on certain commercially caught wild stocks of fish. The FAO says that "eating fish is part of the cultural tradition of many people and in terms of health benefits, it has an excellent nutritional profile, and "is a good source of protein, fatty acids, vitamins, minerals and essential micronutrients".

Aquaculture now accounts for 50 per cent of the world's fish consumed for food, and is the fastest-growing good sector.

China provides over 60 per cent of the world's farmed fish. In Europe, Norway and Scotland are leading producers of finfish, principally farmed salmon.

For farmed salmon, the feed conversion ratio, which is the measurement of how much feed it takes to produce the protein, is 1.1, as in one pound of feed producing one pound of protein, compared to rates of between 2.2 and 10 for beef, pork and chicken. However, scientists have also pointed out that certain farmed fish and shrimp requiring higher levels of protein and calories in feed compared to chickens, pigs, and cattle.

Tilapia farming which originated in the Middle East and Africa has now become the most profitable business in most countries. Tilapia has become the second most popular seafood after crab, due to which its farming is flourishing. It has entered the list of best selling species like shrimp and salmon.

There are 278 aquaculture production units in Ireland, according to Bord Iascaigh Mhara (BIM) *, producing 38,000 tonnes of finfish and shellfish in 2019 and with a total value of €172 million

There are currently almost 2,000 people directly employed in Irish aquaculture in the Republic, according to BIM.

BIM figures for 2019 recorded farmed salmon at almost 12,000 tonnes, valued at €110 million; rock oysters reached 10,300 tonnes at a value of €44 million; rope mussels at 10,600 tonnes were valued at €7 million; seabed cultured mussels at 4,600 tonnes were valued at €7 million; "other" finfish reached 600 tonnes, valued at €2 million and "other" shellfish reached 300 tonnes, valued at €2 million

Irish aquaculture products are exported to Europe, US and Asia, with salmon exported to France, Germany, Belgium and the US. Oysters are exported to France, with developing sales to markets in Hong Kong and China. France is Ireland's largest export for mussels, while there have been increased sales in the domestic and British markets.

The value of the Irish farmed finfish sector fell by five per cent in volume and seven per cent in value in 2019, mainly due to a fall on salmon production, but this was partially offset by a seven per cent increased in farmed shellfish to a value of 60 million euro. Delays in issuing State licenses have hampered further growth of the sector, according to industry representatives.

Fish and shellfish farmers must be licensed, and must comply with regulations and inspections conducted by the Sea Fisheries Protection Authority and the Marine Institute. Food labelling is a function of the Food Safety Authority of Ireland. There is a long backlog of license approvals in the finfish sector, while the Department of Agriculture, Food and Marine says it is working to reduce the backlog in the shellfish sector.

The department says it is working through the backlog, but notes that an application for a marine finfish aquaculture licence must be accompanied by either an Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) or an Environmental Impact Assessment Report (EIAR). As of October 2020, over two-thirds of applications on hand had an EIS outstanding, it said.

The EU requires member states to have marine spatial plans by 2021, and Ireland has assigned responsibility to the Department of Housing, Planning and Local Government for the National Marine Planning Framework (NMPF). Legislation has been drawn up to underpin this, and to provide a "one stop shop" for marine planning, ranging from fish farms to offshore energy – as in Marine Planning and Development Management Bill. However, the Department of Agriculture, Food and Marine confirmed last year that it intends to retain responsibility for aquaculture and sea-fisheries related development – meaning fish and shellfish farmers won't be able to avail of the "one stop shop" for marine planning.

Fish and shellfish health is a challenge, with naturally occurring blooms, jellyfish and the risk of disease. There are also issues with a perception that the sector causes environmental problems.

The industry has been on a steep learning curve, particularly in finfish farming, since it was hailed as a new future for Irish coastal communities from the 1970s – with the State's Electricity Supply Board being an early pioneer, and tobacco company Carrolls also becoming involved for a time. Nutrient build up, which occurs when there is a high density of fish in one area, waste production and its impact on depleting oxygen in water, creating algal blooms and "dead zones", and farmers' use of antibiotics to prevent disease have all been concerns, and anglers have also been worried about the impact of escaped farmed salmon on wild fish populations. Sea lice from salmon farmers were also blamed for declines in sea trout and wild salmon in Irish estuaries and rivers.

BIM says over 95% of all salmon farmed in Ireland are certified organic. Organically grown salmon are only fed a diet of sustainable organic feed. They are also raised in more spacious pens than traditional farmed salmon. The need to site locations for fish farms further out to sea, using more robust cages for weather, has been recognised by regulatory agencies. There is a move towards land-based aquaculture in Norway to reduce impact on local ecosystems. The industry says that antibiotic use is declining, and it says that "safe and effective vaccinations have since been developed for farmed fish and are now widely used". Many countries are now adopting a more sustainable approach to removing sea lice from salmon, using feeder fish such as wrasse and lumpsucker fish. Ireland's first lumpsucker hatchery was opened in 2015.

BIM says over 95% of all salmon farmed in Ireland are certified organic. Organically grown salmon are only fed a diet of sustainable organic feed. They are also raised in more spacious pens than traditional farmed salmon. The need to site locations for fish farms further out to sea, using more robust cages for weather, has been recognised by regulatory agencies. There is a move towards land-based aquaculture in Norway to reduce impact on local ecosystems. The industry says that antibiotic use is declining, and it says that "safe and effective vaccinations have since been developed for farmed fish and are now widely used". Many countries are now adopting a more sustainable approach to removing sea lice from salmon, using feeder fish such as wrasse and lumpsucker fish. Ireland's first lumpsucker hatchery was opened in 2015.

Yes, as it is considered to have better potential for controlling environmental impacts, but it is expensive. As of October 2020, the department was handling over 20 land-based aquaculture applications.

The Irish Farmers' Association has represented fish and shellfish farmers for many years, with its chief executive Richie Flynn, who died in 2018, tirelessly championing the sector. His successor, Teresa Morrissey, is an equally forceful advocate, having worked previously in the Marine Institute in providing regulatory advice on fish health matters, scientific research on emerging aquatic diseases and management of the National Reference Laboratory for crustacean diseases.

BIM provides training in the national vocational certificate in aquaculture at its National Fisheries College, Castletownbere, Co Cork. It also trains divers to work in the industry. The Institute of Technology Carlow has also developed a higher diploma in aqua business at its campus in Wexford, in collaboration with BIM and IFA Aquaculture, the representative association for fish and shellfish farming.

© Afloat 2020

At A Glance - Irish Aquaculture

  • Fish and shellfish are farmed in 14 Irish coastal counties
  • Salmon is the most popular fish bought by Irish families. 
  • In Ireland, most of our salmon is farmed, and along with mussels and oysters, are the main farmed species in the country.
  • The industry sustains 1,833 direct jobs in remote rural areas – 80% in the west of Ireland
  • Every full-time job in aquaculture creates 2.27 other jobs locally (Teagasc 2015)
  • Ireland’s marine farms occupy 0.0004% of Ireland’s 17,500Km2 inshore area.
  • 83% of people in coastal areas support the development of fish farming

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