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Displaying items by tag: Great Lighthouses of Ireland

The Great Lighthouses of Ireland is a collection of extraordinary stories of sophisticated engineering, fatal shipwrecks, heroic sea rescues and lives spent defying the elements.

Through more than 300 stunning images and historic details, this beautiful book brings to life the romance and history of our coastal guardians that evoke such fascination.

Published as an accompaniment to the TV series of the same name, producer and author David Hare’s beautiful gift book is a visual tour of some of our best-known lighthouses, including Ballycotton, Fastnet, Valentia, Loop Head and Fanad Head.

It chronicles the evolution of lighthouse design, the incredible challenges overcome during construction and maintenance, the daily lives of the brave and isolated keepers, and the inspiring tales of heroism and rescue at sea.

With stunning drone footage and stories of daring adventure, The Great Lighthouses of Ireland describes the incredible feats of engineering and invention it took to create the iconic beacons that stud our coastline.

Author David Hare founded Inproduction TV in 1990. The company specialises in factual series and documentaries and supplies RTE, PBS in America, BBC, Channel 4 and broadcasters around the world with programmes.

The Great Lighthouses of Ireland by David Hare will be published by Gill Books on Thursday, 3 November 2022, priced at €27.99.

The Great Lighthouses of Ireland, €27.99/£26.99, Hardback, 978 07171 9525 1

Published in Lighthouses

The hugely popular* Great Lighthouses of Ireland is back for a second series with more stories about the lighthouses around Ireland’s coast and the extraordinary men and women who lived and worked in them, including the lightship keepers whose working conditions were even tougher than those on the remotest of Ireland’s rock stations.

The four-part series covers a wide range of topics designed to appeal, as the first series did, to all ages. Shipwrecks, the power of waves, the disastrous 1979 Fastnet Race, lighthouses in art, storms, engineers, lightships, Marconi, Admiral Beaufort, bird surveys, the Dingle lighthouse keeper who first spotted Fungie the dolphin, the importance of food and the tactics employed by lighthouse keepers to get on with the men they shared a very small space with, are just some of the topics explored.

Cinematic photography, dramatic aerial footage and remarkable characters create another compelling and memorable series.

*When the first series was shown in September 2018 at 18:30 on Sunday evenings, it increased RTE’s share of the audience in all age groups and every socio-economic category.

Programme one

Starting at the Fastnet off the Co. Cork coast, one of the world’s finest lighthouses, James Morrissey, author of ‘A History of the Fastnet lighthouse’, explains how this engineering masterpiece was built. William Douglass designed the lighthouse, made from more than 2,000 individually carved, interlocking granite blocks which continue to withstand the most ferocious Atlantic storms today.

Fastnet Lighthouse drawingFastnet Lighthouse drawing

No less remarkable was the foreman, James Kavanagh, who personally oversaw the installation of each stone, and ensured the welfare of the men on the rock for months on end. Kavanagh, his team and the construction of the lighthouse were captured in an extraordinary, historic collection of photographs from the National Library of Ireland which feature in this programme.

Since 1925, the Fastnet Yacht Race has attracted competitors from around the world, and the lighthouse marks the halfway point around which the yachts must sail before turning back for the finishing line. However, the 1979 Fastnet Race was struck by tragedy when an unexpected hurricane-level storm hit. John O’Donnell, a crewmember on board the yacht Sundowner, recounts the terrifying experience.

Sundowner crewmember, John O’DonnellSundowner crewmember, John O’Donnell

Retired lighthouse keeper Gerald Butler, who witnessed the events from inside the lighthouse, describes the deadly sea conditions of force 10 winds and 40-foot waves and the vital role the lighthouse keepers played in assisting the rescue services.

Retired lighthouse keeper Gerald ButlerRetired lighthouse keeper Gerald Butler

Commodore John Kavanagh, former Flag Officer Commanding Irish Naval Service, details the rescue operation and the Irish Naval Service’s role in locating missing yachts and their crews (extremely challenging in the days before GPS technology). Of the 303 yachts that entered the race, 15 participants died, and a further 6 people who were following the race in convoy were also killed. At least 75 yachts capsized, 24 were abandoned, and 5 sank.

Commodore John KavanaghCommodore John Kavanagh

In the pre-Famine years, people, goods and services were transported around Ireland by sea. With no trains and poor roads, Ireland’s coast was busy, and a significant proportion of its 8 million people lived in coastal areas. Professor Robert Devoy of UCC explains how a bustling coastline led to the establishment of lighthouse buildings which were needed to help reduce the frequent shipwrecks.

Cork Harbour rose to great prominence during the 19th century as a hub for millions of people crossing the Atlantic. Historian Dr. Michael Martin introduces one of Ireland’s most extraordinary, although perhaps little-known engineering figures: Alexander Mitchell the ‘Blind Engineer’. Mitchell was born in 1870 and despite becoming blind by the age of 23, became a world-renowned inventor and engineer. He invented the screw-pile which revolutionised the building of bridges, piers and lighthouses enabling them to be built in places with shifting sands rather than rocks on the seabed.

Spit Bank lighthouse in Cork Harbour is a fine example of Mitchell’s work and is still operational 170 years after being built. Mitchell carried out inspections of the construction work using his hands and sense of touch. A similar ‘Mitchell’ lighthouse continues to operate in Dundalk Harbour, and retired lighthouse keepers Frank Ryan and Richard Foran recall the cramped keepers’ quarters and challenges of living within 10 feet of the fog signal - a repurposed church bell.

In Dublin, the Poolbeg lighthouse is one of the most familiar sights to anyone travelling in or out of Dublin Port. Painted red, and perched on the tip of the 5km Great South Wall, the current lighthouse was built in 1820. Dublin Port Historian Lar Joye outlines how the port has expanded over the centuries, and how the impact of one 19th century engineer is still felt today. George Halpin Snr. rebuilt Dublin Port’s quays, walls and docks. Halpin then became the Ballast Board’s Inspector of Lighthouses in 1810.

The Poolbeg lighthouse at the entrance to Dublin PortThe Poolbeg lighthouse at the entrance to Dublin Port

Historian Turtle Bunbury reveals how few people have had such an impact on Ireland’s landscape as Halpin who designed and supervised the construction of over 50 lighthouses, most of which continue to serve mariners after 200 years.

Examples of George Halpin Snr’s lighthouses include The Baily, Co. Dublin, Wicklow Head, Co. Wicklow, the Tuskar, Co. Wexford, Ballycotton, Youghal, Roches Point, Crookhaven and the Old Head of Kinsale in Co. Cork, Little Samphire Island and the Skelligs, Co. Kerry, Loop Head, Co. Clare, Slyne Head, Co. Galway, Eagle Island, Co. Mayo, Rotten Island, St. John’s Point, Fanad Head, Tory Island, and Shroove, Co. Donegal, the Maidens, Co. Antrim, and St. John’s Point Co. Down.

Yvonne Shields O’Connor, CEO, Irish Lights said, “Irish Lights is delighted to collaborate with RTÉ on the second series of the Great Lighthouses of Ireland documentary. This tremendous production conveys the captivating and complex maritime history and heritage of the seas around the island of Ireland and new challenges and opportunities which we face today.

“At no time in our history has the sea been more critical to our ability to thrive as an island economy. Our role in Irish Lights is to provide essential navigation and safety services to all those who operate at sea and around our coast north and south. As we navigate from the past, through the present and towards the future, it is incumbent on us all to cherish this wonderful asset of ours, the sea, and ensure its sustainable use and preservation for the generations coming after us.This documentary is a vivid testimonial to what that means and why it is important.

Great Lighthouses of Ireland is produced and directed by David Hare of InProductionTV for RTÉ in association with Irish Lights

Great Lighthouses of Ireland, series two, programme one airs on Sunday, May 8th, RTÉ One

Published in Maritime TV

Ireland's offshore islands

Around 30 of Ireland's offshore islands are inhabited and hold a wealth of cultural heritage.

A central Government objective is to ensure that sustainable vibrant communities continue to live on the islands.

Irish offshore islands FAQs

Technically, it is Ireland itself, as the third largest island in Europe.

Ireland is surrounded by approximately 80 islands of significant size, of which only about 20 are inhabited.

Achill island is the largest of the Irish isles with a coastline of almost 80 miles and has a population of 2,569.

The smallest inhabited offshore island is Inishfree, off Donegal.

The total voting population in the Republic's inhabited islands is just over 2,600 people, according to the Department of Housing.

Starting with west Cork, and giving voting register numbers as of 2020, here you go - Bere island (177), Cape Clear island (131),Dursey island (6), Hare island (29), Whiddy island (26), Long island, Schull (16), Sherkin island (95). The Galway islands are Inis Mór (675), Inis Meáin (148), Inis Oírr (210), Inishbofin (183). The Donegal islands are Arranmore (513), Gola (30), Inishboffin (63), Inishfree (4), Tory (140). The Mayo islands, apart from Achill which is connected by a bridge, are Clare island (116), Inishbiggle (25) and Inishturk (52).

No, the Gaeltacht islands are the Donegal islands, three of the four Galway islands (Inishbofin, like Clifden, is English-speaking primarily), and Cape Clear or Oileán Chléire in west Cork.

Lack of a pier was one of the main factors in the evacuation of a number of islands, the best known being the Blasket islands off Kerry, which were evacuated in November 1953. There are now three cottages available to rent on the Great Blasket island.

In the early 20th century, scholars visited the Great Blasket to learn Irish and to collect folklore and they encouraged the islanders to record their life stories in their native tongue. The three best known island books are An tOileánach (The Islandman) by Tomás Ó Criomhthain, Peig by Peig Sayers, and Fiche Blian ag Fás (Twenty Years A-Growing) by Muiris Ó Súilleabháin. Former taoiseach Charles J Haughey also kept a residence on his island, Inishvickillaune, which is one of the smaller and less accessible Blasket islands.

Charles J Haughey, as above, or late Beatle musician, John Lennon. Lennon bought Dorinish island in Clew Bay, south Mayo, in 1967 for a reported £1,700 sterling. Vendor was Westport Harbour Board which had used it for marine pilots. Lennon reportedly planned to spend his retirement there, and The Guardian newspaper quoted local estate agent Andrew Crowley as saying he was "besotted with the place by all accounts". He did lodge a planning application for a house, but never built on the 19 acres. He offered it to Sid Rawle, founder of the Digger Action Movement and known as the "King of the Hippies". Rawle and 30 others lived there until 1972 when their tents were burned by an oil lamp. Lennon and Yoko Ono visited it once more before his death in 1980. Ono sold the island for £30,000 in 1984, and it is widely reported that she donated the proceeds of the sale to an Irish orphanage

 

Yes, Rathlin island, off Co Antrim's Causeway Coast, is Ireland's most northerly inhabited island. As a special area of conservation, it is home to tens of thousands of sea birds, including puffins, kittiwakes, razorbills and guillemots. It is known for its Rathlin golden hare. It is almost famous for the fact that Robert the Bruce, King of Scots, retreated after being defeated by the English at Perth and hid in a sea cave where he was so inspired by a spider's tenacity that he returned to defeat his enemy.

No. The Aran islands have a regular ferry and plane service, with ferries from Ros-a-Mhíl, south Connemara all year round and from Doolin, Co Clare in the tourist season. The plane service flies from Indreabhán to all three islands. Inishbofin is connected by ferry from Cleggan, Co Galway, while Clare island and Inishturk are connected from Roonagh pier, outside Louisburgh. The Donegal islands of Arranmore and Tory island also have ferry services, as has Bere island, Cape Clear and Sherkin off Cork. How are the island transport services financed? The Government subsidises transport services to and from the islands. The Irish Coast Guard carries out medical evacuations, as to the RNLI lifeboats. Former Fianna Fáíl minister Éamon Ó Cuív is widely credited with improving transport services to and from offshore islands, earning his department the nickname "Craggy island".

Craggy Island is an bleak, isolated community located of the west coast, inhabited by Irish, a Chinese community and one Maori. Three priests and housekeeper Mrs Doyle live in a parochial house There is a pub, a very small golf course, a McDonald's fast food restaurant and a Chinatown... Actually, that is all fiction. Craggy island is a figment of the imagination of the Father Ted series writers Graham Linehan and Arthur Mathews, for the highly successful Channel 4 television series, and the Georgian style parochial house on the "island" is actually Glenquin House in Co Clare.

Yes, that is of the Plassey, a freighter which was washed up on Inis Oírr in bad weather in 1960.

There are some small privately owned islands,and islands like Inishlyre in Co Mayo with only a small number of residents providing their own transport. Several Connemara islands such as Turbot and Inishturk South have a growing summer population, with some residents extending their stay during Covid-19. Turbot island off Eyrephort is one such example – the island, which was first spotted by Alcock and Brown as they approached Ireland during their epic transatlantic flight in 1919, was evacuated in 1978, four years after three of its fishermen drowned on the way home from watching an All Ireland final in Clifden. However, it is slowly being repopulated

Responsibility for the islands was taking over by the Department of Rural and Community Development . It was previously with the Gaeltacht section in the Department of Media, Tourism, Arts, Culture, Sport and the Gaeltacht.

It is a periodic bone of contention, as Ireland does not have the same approach to its islands as Norway, which believes in right of access. However, many improvements were made during Fianna Fáíl Galway West TD Éamon Ó Cuív's time as minister. The Irish Island Federation, Comdháil Oileáin na hÉireann, represents island issues at national and international level.

The 12 offshore islands with registered voters have long argued that having to cast their vote early puts them at a disadvantage – especially as improved transport links mean that ballot boxes can be transported to the mainland in most weather conditions, bar the winter months. Legislation allowing them to vote on the same day as the rest of the State wasn't passed in time for the February 2020 general election.

Yes, but check tide tables ! Omey island off north Connemara is accessible at low tide and also runs a summer race meeting on the strand. In Sligo, 14 pillars mark the way to Coney island – one of several islands bearing this name off the Irish coast.

Cape Clear or Oileán Chléire is the country's most southerly inhabited island, eight miles off the west Cork coast, and within sight of the Fastnet Rock lighthouse, also known as the "teardrop of Ireland".
Skellig Michael off the Kerry coast, which has a monastic site dating from the 6th century. It is accessible by boat – prebooking essential – from Portmagee, Co Kerry. However, due to Covid-19 restrictions, it was not open to visitors in 2020.
All islands have bird life, but puffins and gannets and kittiwakes are synonymous with Skellig Michael and Little Skellig. Rathlin island off Antrim and Cape Clear off west Cork have bird observatories. The Saltee islands off the Wexford coast are privately owned by the O'Neill family, but day visitors are permitted access to the Great Saltee during certain hours. The Saltees have gannets, gulls, puffins and Manx shearwaters.
Vikings used Dublin as a European slaving capital, and one of their bases was on Dalkey island, which can be viewed from Killiney's Vico road. Boat trips available from Coliemore harbour in Dalkey. Birdwatch Ireland has set up nestboxes here for roseate terns. Keep an eye out also for feral goats.
Plenty! There are regular boat trips in summer to Inchagoill island on Lough Corrib, while the best known Irish inshore island might be the lake isle of Innisfree on Sligo's Lough Gill, immortalised by WB Yeats in his poem of the same name. Roscommon's Lough Key has several islands, the most prominent being the privately-owned Castle Island. Trinity island is more accessible to the public - it was once occupied by Cistercian monks from Boyle Abbey.

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