Menu

Ireland's sailing, boating & maritime magazine

Conor O’Brien Honoured With Ilen Dun Laoghaire Celebration For Saoirse Circumnavigation Centenary

18th June 2023
The Conor O’Brien/Saoirse Circumnavigation Centenary Celebrations get underway with the Ilen at the Royal Irish Yacht Club in Dun Laoghaire on Saturday, preparing for departure for Madeira
The Conor O’Brien/Saoirse Circumnavigation Centenary Celebrations get under way with the Ilen at the Royal Irish yacht Club in Dun Laoghaire on Saturday, preparing for departure for Madeira Credit: Afloat

The Commemoration of the Centenary of the pioneering global circumnavigation south of the Great Capes by Conor O’Brien of Foynes, sailing the 42ft ketch Saoirse between June 20th 1923 and June 20th 1925, was put underway yesterday (Saturday) from Dun Laoghaire with the 56ft 1926-built trading ketch Ilen – another O’Brien creation – departing from the Royal Irish Yacht Club to replicate Saoirse’s initial 1923 passage, the 1,300-mile voyage to Madeira.

Having been restored by Gary MacMahon of the Ilen Project in Limerick, working with Liam Hegarty of Oldcourt Boatyard in West Cork, Ilen is now under the command of James Lyons of the of Sailing into Wellness Programme, and she was accompanied out of Dublin Bay by a flotilla of other craft including sail-training vessels.

A very complete reception has been arranged in Madeira for July 3rd and subsequent days, by which time Ilen will be accompanied by 38 other craft – including some quite substantial vessels – to mark and celebrate what was a very special first port in the as-then untested new ship’s remarkable voyage.

The re-build of Saoirse sailing recently in Baltimore. Photo: Kevin O’FarrellThe re-build of Saoirse sailing recently in Baltimore. Photo: Kevin O’Farrell

Ilen is fulfilling this role in 2023 as the newly-commissioned re-build of Saoirse, undertaken for Fred Kinmonth of Hong Kong and West Cork by Liam Hegarty, will remain Baltimore-based for the time being.

But meanwhile, in the Royal Irish Yacht Club in Saturday, safe in the knowledge that O’Brien and Saoirse’s “leap in the dark” of a hundred years ago went on to achieve complete and totally ground-breaking success, Commodore Jerry Dowling hosted a very convivial and fully-attended Saoirse Centenary Lunch.

This was for Commodore David Beattie and his members of the Irish Cruising Club, who have published a special Centenary 6th Edition of O’Brien’s highly-regarded account of the voyage, Across Three Oceans. The large attendance included members of the O’Brien family most closely related to Conor O’Brien, as well as many other Saoirse/Ilen enthusiasts.

 Royal Irish Yacht Club Commodore Jerry Dowling (right) presenting Irish Cruising Club Commodore David Beattie with the Saoirse half-model on Saturday Photo: Aoife Nolan Royal Irish Yacht Club Commodore Jerry Dowling (right) presenting Irish Cruising Club Commodore David Beattie with the Saoirse half-model on Saturday Photo: Aoife Nolan

The lunch programme included a ceremony in which the RIYC presented the ICC with a half-model of Saoirse that will now remain on permanent display in the Royal Irish YC clubhouse, together with a bust of O’Brien – sculpted from whalebone by Danny Osborne – which was presented to the club at a ceremonial lunch in 1998 to commemorate the 75th Anniversary of the voyage.

The O’Briens gather. Close relatives of Conor O’Brien on Saturday in the RIYC with the Danny Osborne-sculpted whalebone bust which was presented to the club in 1998 to mark the 75th Anniversary of his circumnavigation. Photo: Aoife Nolan The O’Briens gather. Close relatives of Conor O’Brien on Saturday in the RIYC with the Danny Osborne-sculpted whalebone bust which was presented to the club in 1998 to mark the 75th Anniversary of his circumnavigation. Photo: Aoife Nolan 

The current healthy state of the two most historic O’Brien vessels is very largely due to the determined enthusiasm of Gary Mac Mahon of Limerick, who devoted 27 years and more of his best efforts to ensuring that they sailed again. When he brought the “worn-out” Ilen back from the Falkland Islands in 1997 where she had been retired from her duties as inter-island service boat, her restoration became an eleven-year project after the first of many fund-raising projects had amassed sufficient initial funds.

As for Saoirse, a post-hurricane beaching and break-up in 1979 in Jamaica had resulted in very little in the way of surviving material. But Gary retrieved what he could of those artefacts, and steadily amassed an impressive collection of research material and technical data. This included lines taken off by international designer Uffa Fox in 1927, which showed that Conor O’Brien’s initial rough sketches of 1922 were remarkably accurate, but their availability added even further credibility to the re-build.

The Ilen heads seawards followed by sail-training vessels leader and Brian Boru. Photo: AfloatThe Ilen heads seawards followed by sail-training vessels leader and Brian Boru. Photo: Afloat

 Ilen is Madeira-bound. The initial 1,300 mile passage from Dublin Bay to Madeira was Saoirse’s first real experience of ocean voyaging back in 2023. Photo: Afloat Ilen is Madeira-bound. The initial 1,300 mile passage from Dublin Bay to Madeira was Saoirse’s first real experience of ocean voyaging back in 2023. Photo: Afloat

His work successfully completed, Gary Mac Mahon has now stood back from day-to-day involvement. But in celebration, Saturday’s lunch concluded with two toasts – one for Conor O’Brien, and the other for Gary Mac Mahon. And then the crew of Ilen and their escorts and the well-wishers embarked on their various craft to sail out into a grey sea which was decidedly at variance with the bright cheerfulness of the dining room in the RIYC. But the mood was good, and doubtless the sun will be shining brightly when the well-attended rendezvous – with generous hospitality from the Madeiran authorities – gets under way in Funchal on July 3rd.

Flag signal to Ilen as she leaves Dublin Bay: “I wish you a safe voyage, Ilen” Photo: Aoife NolanFlag signal to Ilen as she leaves Dublin Bay: “I wish you a safe voyage, Ilen” Photo: Aoife Nolan

WM Nixon

About The Author

WM Nixon

Email The Author

William M Nixon has been writing about sailing in Ireland for many years in print and online, and his work has appeared internationally in magazines and books. His own experience ranges from club sailing to international offshore events, and he has cruised extensively under sail, often in his own boats which have ranged in size from an 11ft dinghy to a 35ft cruiser-racer. He has also been involved in the administration of several sailing organisations.

We've got a favour to ask

More people are reading Afloat.ie than ever thanks to the power of the internet but we're in stormy seas because advertising revenues across the media are falling fast. Unlike many news sites, we haven’t put up a paywall because we want to keep our marine journalism open.

Afloat.ie is Ireland's only full–time marine journalism team and it takes time, money and hard work to produce our content.

So you can see why we need to ask for your help.

If everyone chipped in, we can enhance our coverage and our future would be more secure. You can help us through a small donation. Thank you.

Direct Donation to Afloat button

Ireland's Trading Ketch Ilen

The Ilen is the last of Ireland’s traditional wooden sailing ships.

Designed by Limerick man Conor O’Brien and built in Baltimore in 1926, she was delivered by Munster men to the Falkland Islands where she served valiantly for seventy years, enduring and enjoying the Roaring Forties, the Furious Fifties, and Screaming Sixties.

Returned now to Ireland and given a new breath of life, Ilen may be described as the last of Ireland’s timber-built ocean-going sailing ships, yet at a mere 56ft, it is capable of visiting most of the small harbours of Ireland.

Wooden Sailing Ship Ilen FAQs

The Ilen is the last of Ireland’s traditional wooden sailing ships.

The Ilen was designed by Conor O’Brien, the first Irish man to circumnavigate the world.

Ilen is named for the West Cork River which flows to the sea at Baltimore, her home port.

The Ilen was built by Baltimore Sea Fisheries School, West Cork in 1926. Tom Moynihan was foreman.

Ilen's wood construction is of oak ribs and planks of larch.

As-built initially, she is 56 feet in length overall with a beam of 14 feet and a displacement of 45 tonnes.

Conor O’Brien set sail in August 1926 with two Cadogan cousins from Cape Clear in West Cork, arriving at Port Stanley in January 1927 and handed it over to the new owners.

The Ilen was delivered to the Falkland Islands Company, in exchange for £1,500.

Ilen served for over 70 years as a cargo ship and a ferry in the Falkland Islands, enduring and enjoying the Roaring Forties, the Furious Fifties, and Screaming Sixties. She stayed in service until the early 1990s.

Limerick sailor Gary McMahon and his team located Ilen. MacMahon started looking for her in 1996 and went out to the Falklands and struck a deal with the owner to bring her back to Ireland.

After a lifetime of hard work in the Falklands, Ilen required a ground-up rebuild.

A Russian cargo ship transported her back on a 12,000-mile trip from the Southern Oceans to Dublin. The Ilen was discharged at the Port of Dublin 1997, after an absence from Ireland of 70 years.

It was a collaboration between the Ilen Project in Limerick and Hegarty’s Boatyard in Old Court, near Skibbereen. Much of the heavy lifting, of frames, planking, deadwood & backbone, knees, floors, shelves and stringers, deck beams, and carlins, was done in Hegarty’s. The generally lighter work of preparing sole, bulkheads, deck‐houses fixed furniture, fixtures & fittings, deck fittings, machinery, systems, tanks, spar making and rigging is being done at the Ilen boat building school in Limerick.

Ten years. The boat was much the worse for wear when it returned to West Cork in May 1998, and it remained dormant for ten years before the start of a decade-long restoration.

Ilen now serves as a community floating classroom and cargo vessel – visiting 23 ports in 2019 and making a transatlantic crossing to Greenland as part of a relationship-building project to link youth in Limerick City with youth in Nuuk, west Greenland.

At a mere 56ft, Ilen is capable of visiting most of the small harbours of Ireland.

©Afloat 2020